Most often, H27 is used in fog lights, less often in low beam or daytime running lights. The exact type is determined by the marking on the base of the old bulb or the vehicle manual; the year of manufacture or VIN is often not enough. If the marking is not visible, send a photo of the old bulb and the connector — we’ll help identify the base.
Electrically they are the same — 12 V and 27 W, the difference is in the base flange: 880 (H27W/1) has a PG13 base, while 881 (H27W/2) has PGJ13, so one will not lock into the other’s socket. Bulb 890 has a PGJ13 base, meaning the same fit as 881. On the page there is Narva 880 for PG13 and Narva 890 for PGJ13.
No. These bulbs have different bases and different wattage, so they will not fit the H27 socket and cannot replace one another without checking. There is a separate bulb section for each base.
It depends on the vehicle: due to lower power consumption, some cars show a bulb error or the bulb flickers. The easiest way is to check after installation by turning on the fog lights; if there is an error, a CANbus adapter is used. A mounting adapter that holds the bulb in the socket does not remove the error.
Narva 880 and 890 halogen bulbs are sold individually, while the Niken Pro-series LED kit comes as a pair with built-in drivers. It is best to replace both headlights at once and with bulbs of the same type, so the light on the left and right is the same in brightness and shade.
The Niken LED bulb has a built-in driver and heat sink, so it is longer than a halogen bulb. Before buying, check the space behind the fog light or under its cover, the fit in the socket, and whether the bulb can be closed off from moisture and dirt at the rear.